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11
Mount your contact wheel onto whatever shaft driven
apparatus you have and using "Cellotape"
48mm wide double sided tape (narrower tapes are
available) line up with the wheel edges and stick
a layer around the wheel, trim so the two ends almost
touch.
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12
Switch on the machine and run the handle of your
pair of scissors across the protective paper to
ensure it is firmly stuck to the wheel and no air
is trapped underneath. Remove the protective paper,
roll up and store in a safe dust free place.
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13
Measure the width of your contact wheel with your
vernier and using this dimension transfer it along
both top and bottom edges of your first sheet
of 400 grit paper, use your steel rule and a sharp
blade to cut it into strips to match the width
of the wheel.
The D.S. tape is very sticky and if you stick
the paper to it you would have to replace the
tape with each paper change, so, lightly dust
the back of each strip of paper with talcum powder
(I use "Tinkerbell" borrowed from my
teenage daughter a few years back - which has
me smelling like a fairy during the
entire performance),
rub the powder in with your fingertips and wipe
off the excess with a clean cloth.
Prepared this way your paper will peel off easily
after use, you should powder the next 3 paper changes
as you did the first and thereafter you should be
able to change the paper ±20 times without
replacing the D.S. tape.
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14
We now stick our strips of paper on to the wheel,
carefully lined up with the edges and butt joined
up against each other. Press the joints down firmly
with your thumbs and press down the paper with the
heel of your hands.
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15
Run the wheel and touch the edges of the paper with
a piece of hardened steel/tungsten to ensure they
are nicely smoothed down, a blast of air will clean
it all up for you to start sanding.