Image
6
This grind is now run straight down the tang (note
the straight center line in the sketch). You can
now hold a rule along the centre line and check
for tell-tale light to see if your grind is deep
enough. The bottom edge of the tang is normally
still quite wide - a little can be ground off each
side as shown.
Image
7
Over to the vertical platen or whatever platen is
available. Start your grind at the end of the tang;
note the position of the tang on the platen and
the champagne cork applying pressure on the centre
line.
Image
8
Your first flattening grind should start like
this, the top and bottom clear ground edges should
be opposite each other or parallel to the back
of the guard. If not, reposition the cork position
to apply pressure over the lowest edge, keep checking;
don't let your grind get too high before you have
corrected this.
Image
9
Lower the tang on the platen and allow your grind
to work its way up to just below the back of the
guard.
Note: You will notice that the guard on this
knife is narrow at the top and wider at the bottom
(seemed like a good idea at the time) as opposed
to being parallel. As a result the scribed line
at the back of the guard angles slightly across
the tang. As shown you will find it easier to
grind to this line if it is held horizontal i.e.
at a right angle to the edge of the platen. You
obviously have the option at this stage of finishing
the taper on the platen - provided you are satisfied
it is truly flat. In my shop however, although
hardened, the platen still takes quite a beating
and never gives me the "flatness" I
am after. I therefore prefer to go one extra step.
Image
10
Final flattening should be done working across the
top of a 300mm diameter 50 grit disc spinning clockwise
at ±950 r.p.m. as shown. Again start from
the back, keep checking, and if necessary make corrections
by repositioning your cork and let your grind work
up slowly towards the back of the guard. Keep your
cork positioned in the lower third of the tang.